Monday, October 31, 2011

Removal and Prevention of Black Mold

!±8± Removal and Prevention of Black Mold

Black mold is a problem people have been dealing with for years. However, it hasn't been until recently that we are beginning to understand the negative impact it can have in our lives. Toxic types of mold do not discriminate and they are quite common. Black mold, in particular, has caused numerous health problems ranging from headaches and dizziness to full on breathing difficulties requiring hospitalization. It is for this reason, entire schools and workplaces have been shut down for mold treatment.

How to Identify Black Mold

This type of mold has a greenish-black appearance and a slimy texture. It can be difficult to judge by appearance alone if mold growth is black mold, but can be a good indication that it requires removal. No matter the color of texture of mold, it should be considered dangerous as any mold in the home will be spreading spores which may be toxic. A musty or moldy smell can often be the first sign and a good indication that there is a mold problem in the home.

Black mold often colonizes on porous organic surfaces such as drywall, ceiling tiles and carpet. It is especially at home on drywall which has sustained a continuous bout of water and humidity levels consistently over 60 percent. Identifying which type of mold is present is an important step in determining how to remove the problem. It is widely assumed this is an expensive process. However, there are inexpensive ways of testing for toxic mold which can be done yourself. Keep reading for how to test whether you have a toxic or mild mold problem.

Symptoms of Toxic Black Mold Poisoning

If you have a black mold problem in the home, even at small degree, it is likely someone will be affected. These spores are high-level allergens producing mycotoxins which flow through the air, your air/heating system and will be inhaled into the lungs. Short term problems include headaches, colds, flu, frequent sinus infections and respiratory problems. Long term, the effects of toxic mold poisoning are still being studied, however, the results we do have are not good. Memory loss, weakness, permanent respiratory difficulties and possible debilitating disease. It is best to not take any chances. If you suspect a mold problem go first to the source.

Where to Start

A water leak or problem is the appropriate place to begin when it comes to an obvious or suspected mold growth. In some cases, this may result in a plumber coming to the home to repair any damage from busted pipes, leaking shower stalls or a broken water heater. Having to hire a professional plumber should be considered as a necessity when the job is out of the scope of the home owners expertise. Like mold growth itself, putting this off will only result in further damages to your home and a decline in health.

Once the leak issue is fixed, you may consider testing for the severity and type of mold.

How to Test for Mold Growth

Testing for black mold or any toxic mold can be done in two ways. Surface testing or air sample testing.

Surface testing usually consists of applying a strip of sticky tape to an exposed mold surface then sampling for the type. This is an easy way to test for whether you are dealing with toxic mold but is not effective in determining the severity of the problem and in many situations, actual mold growth can be out of view.

Air sampling draws particles into a reservoir to allow for organic testing of mold spores. This is an effective way to test for mold growth concentration leading to an assessment of how much mold you are dealing with and the type involved. Do keep in mind that in many cases, different types of toxic mold can coexist even within the same colony.

The most effective measure of mold sampling is a combination of both methods. By doing a little research, one can find cost effective do it yourself mold testing kits of good enough quality to at least rule out the consideration of having a professional mold remediation company consulted.

Black Mold Removal

Black mold or any toxic mold for that matter can be removed safely by home owners when the surface area affected is less than three by three feet. If you suspect dealing with a larger problem than this, a mold removal company may be consulted to come out to your home for an inspection and estimation of cost.

If you decide to remove toxic mold yourself, you should begin by turning off your air/heating unit. Not doing so will result in spores being distributed all about your home where they can form additional colonies of growth. If the mold problem is in a bathroom, you may have an exhaust fan which can be turned on to help funnel any spores released during cleaning to the outside. If no exhaust fan is available, try creating a draft through an open window.

Always seal off the area in which you are removing dangerous molds. This can be done by sealing off the area with polyethylene sheets and tape. The purpose of this step is for containment, as it is of highest priority.

Using a mixture of soap and water, gently remove the mold from the surface area. Afterward, apply a coating of mold disinfectant to the area it once was and a wider area several feet out to ensure all spores have been disinfected. Dormant mold spores can live on for several years, so it's important to kill all you can.

If the surface you are cleaning is damaged permanently, it may need replaced completely. Although, this isn't always necessary. However, because the are porous, wet drywall or ceiling tiles which have become warped and moldy through constant moisture will most likely need replacing.

A dehumidifier can be used to both dry out an area after clean up and keep humidity levels below 60 percent continuously to prevent further mold growth. Consider relative humidity sensors as well since no part of the home will have the same humidity level present. Both of these can be purchased for a reasonable cost.

Black mold can end up being a huge cost and health problem if it is left to grow without interruption. Take action as soon as you see or smell any mold, assume it's dangerous. Your home and family will thank you for it with good health.


Removal and Prevention of Black Mold

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Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Home Energy Savings: New House Design and Energy Conservation

!±8± Home Energy Savings: New House Design and Energy Conservation

Consumers in North America are getting ready for the 2005 / 2006 winter season as we write this report and most are bracing themselves for larger energy bills during the coming winter heating season than past years. Recent spikes in energy costs for all types of energy including gasoline, heating oil, electricity and natural gas are causing many consumers to begin thinking about how they heat their homes and whether they can save money. In our discussion we will use the term "energy" to refer to all of the previous forms of fuel that is used in our homes.

Energy conservation begins with the design and construction of a new home and carries through to your daily living habits. Consumers who have the most success in terms of reducing their energy bills have made energy conservation a way of life, while enjoying their new homes in comfort.

Many homeowners have the potential to reduce their heating bills by as much as 50% or more. They can achieve these savings with a logical, well planned approach beginning with the design of the home, proper construction techniques, well insulated windows, doors, and walls and then follow through with daily, monthly and annual operational techniques.

Consumers who have designed and insulated their home with energy conservation in mind will be able to maximize their savings if they make energy conservation part of their every day life. The common objectives of living in a comfortable home and managing your energy consumption can easily be met by following a few simple rules.

Systems Approach to Energy Savings

Our homes are really a complex environment that must be managed to ensure that we live comfortably, have sufficient fresh air, while controlling our energy consumption at the same time. Essentially, a well planned home will take into account the amount of energy intake from energy sources such as our heating system as well as solar heating vs. energy loss from the effects of cold weather, heat loss through windows, doors, walls and floors as well as heat reduction when we use air conditioning systems in hot climates.

In the winter we are concerned about the cost of heating our homes and the loss of heat to the outside through leakage of cold air into our homes. The summer brings the reverse when we must cool our homes and manage the cooling during hot summer days. In both cases solar heat plays a part in the equation as well as how well sealed our homes are. Consumers living in colder climates will be more concerned about winter heating costs while consumers living in southern areas of the continent will worry about the cost of air conditioning.

Taking a systems approach to managing your energy costs is one way to ensure that you maximize your savings and make a positive contribution to the environment through reduced energy usage. Energy conservation and home design begins with the orientation of your home to maximize the heating of your home by natural solar heating in colder climates and avoiding solar heating in hot climates. Next, consumers can take advantage of natural shade or by adding trees to provide shade during hot summer days and also act as wind breaks to reduce the impact of the cooling effects that the wind can have on the amount of energy they use.

Once you have considered these elements, consumers should use the latest techniques in designing their homes with high insulation values in the walls, energy efficient heating and cooling systems as well as energy efficient appliances. For example your air conditioning unit should be energy efficient and placed were it will be in the shade as much as possible to maximize its efficiency. Selection of fluorescent lighting, taking advantage of natural lighting are additional elements to be considered in the design of your new home. Visit our home energy checklist for more details on steps you can take to reduce your energy costs at the design stage of your home.

Consumers may also want to invest in an energy audit of their homes design before agreeing to the final design. A relatively low cost audit can sometimes save thousands of dollars in energy costs over the life of their home.

Our Home Energy Checklist

We have assembled a home energy checklist with both the new home buyer / builder in mind as well as items to check after you have moved in. Our objective is to assist you in saving energy, which means money in your pocket during the design as well as after you have moved into your new home. Saving energy can be divided into four areas: Home Design; Appliance & Lighting Selection, Energy Conservation - A Way of Life. This total systems and life style approach is really geared to maximizing your energy savings.

You might have the most efficient energy saving home built, however if you move in and leave all of the lights on all the time, leave the windows open when you are heating the house or cooling, your energy saving initiatives will not be as affective as you might have thought.

With this in mind our energy savings checklist applies to the design phase as well as after you have moved into your new home. Even consumers who have been in their homes for a few years will find this checklist useful for managing their energy consumption.

Designing New Homes and Energy Conservation

Most home designers and architects are up to date on energy conservation techniques, however they are also geared to meeting their customers needs and priorities for their home designs. Many consumers will consider home energy management almost as an after thought when it is too late to incorporate energy savings concepts into their new home design. As you and your home designer or architect discuss your plans and your objectives for your new home, always emphasize that energy management and home comfort are a very important element of the final design that your are looking for.

Designing a new home actually begins with site selection and orientation of your home on the property. Depending on the climate consumers will want to orient their homes on the property to manage the amount of solar heating that the house will be exposed to. A common theme throughout this report is to orient your home so that the sun can heat the home naturally in the winter, while minimizing the effects of solar heating during hot summer days. Adding trees or shrubs to provide shade and taking advantage of natural land formations to provide shelter from prevailing winds is the first step in managing your energy costs.

Construction of the foundation for homes varies a great deal across the continent. In some locales a below grade basement is mandatory, while in other locations a concrete slab is standard. In both situations, insulation is a key component to maintain comfortable living conditions while reducing your energy costs. Insulation can be added below the slab of concrete and all basement walls should be properly sealed and insulated to at least R20 levels. All exposed hot water pipes can be insulated as well in addition.

Walls should be insulated to at least R20, while attics should have insulation to a level of R40. Floors over crawl spaces will be warmer and you will lose less energy if the floors are also insulated. Many customers will select wall to wall carpeting for additional insulation and warmth, however if you prefer ceramic, marble or hardwood floors, area rugs can be used as decoration as well as providing a warm surface to walk on. Ceiling fans are another inexpensive way to distribute naturally heated air.

Consumers can select windows and doors that are energy rated with triple pane windows and insulated steel doors. Adding a storm door to the outside increases the level of insulating and energy savings that you can achieve. During the winter consumers will enjoy the warmth of the suns ray's through the windows, while summer months the windows can be covered to reduce the heating affects of the sun. Selection of window coverings, while meeting aesthetic requirements can also support energy saving concepts as well.

The selection of lighting fixtures with fluorescent lighting and also taking into account natural lighting can reduce your lighting costs significantly. Incorporate timers, motion detectors, photo cells at appropriate locations in your home to assist in managing your lighting needs as well as energy usage.

Bathroom design as well as all areas were water is used should incorporate flow restrictors to minimize the use of cold and hot water.

Everyone loves to have a fireplace in their home. A fireplace can generate a huge loss of energy if not managed properly and designed with energy conservation in mind. Natural wood burning fireplaces have the lowest efficiency, while sealed gas fireplaces can be very efficient, while still providing the ambiance that many consumers are looking for.

The selection and use of your appliances can have a significant impact on your energy costs. Old appliances may be energy guzzlers, while new appliances should be chosen based on their energy ratings. Selecting a high efficiency furnace, air conditioner and water heater is a first step. Consider purchasing new appliances instead of moving your appliances from your last home. Electronic ignition of gas appliances, taking advantage of shade for your air conditioner and using a digital thermostat that allows timed control of your homes interior temperature are all elements of the energy design of your home.

One final comment about new home design is in order. Consumers may also want to arrange for an energy audit of their home before they agree to the final design. Suggestions by an expert quite often will pay for the cost of the audit in terms of energy savings.

Energy Conservation - A Way of Life

Consumers who go to the time and expense of designing and building an energy efficient home may be disappointed with the savings that they obtain if they do not practice energy conservation in their daily lives. For example, you may have paid for a well insulated home, sealed all the cracks, used caulking were you were supposed to and installed the best windows and doors. If you then leave windows open, forget to turn down the thermostat on cold winter days when you are not at home or turn up the thermostat on hot days, you may not achieve the savings that you were expecting. Leaving lights on, running appliances with partial loads e.g. the dishwasher etc can also increase your energy consumption beyond what you may have been expecting.

Our home energy checklist covers many items that home owners can consider as a means of taking advantage of all of the energy efficient attributes of their home to reduce their energy consumption even further. Making this approach part of your lifestyle will ensure that your energy savings continue after you have moved in to your new home and lived there for sometime.

Many people are also concerned about the impact of conserving energy on their comfort and may be afraid to implement some energy saving concepts. We would like to politely point out that replacing an incandescent light with a fluorescent light will not only save you energy, but provide you with a more comfortable light in your home as well. Filling up the dishwasher or the clothes washer before running them takes no additional effort on your part and saves you energy usage at the same time. There are many examples such as these that will reduce your energy consumption and not impact your comfort. In fact plugging leaks and designing ceiling fans into the home can positively improve the aesthetics as well as reduce drafts.

Review our home energy checklist and apply those items that impact your situation. You will be amazed at how much you can save by following a few simple steps!


Home Energy Savings: New House Design and Energy Conservation

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Friday, October 21, 2011

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Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Broan Model 658 Combination Bathroom Heater/Fan Unit, 70 CFM, 4.0 Sones

!±8±Broan Model 658 Combination Bathroom Heater/Fan Unit, 70 CFM, 4.0 Sones

Brand : Broan-NuTone
Rate :
Price : $69.00
Post Date : Oct 19, 2011 01:43:54
Usually ships in 3-4 business days



Broan-NuTone 658 Heater/Fan Since their beginning in 1932, Broan has pioneered many of the product innovations now established as standards of the industry. Today, Broan carries on the commitment to provide the finest products in the industry.Broan has plenty of models to choose from. So you can get exactly the comfort and convenience features you want. All in one compact, easy-to-install unit.Broan-NuTone 658 Heater/Fan Features:; Combination Units, Heater/Fan/Light; Heater/Fan; same as Model 655 but does not include light; 70 CFM 4.0 Sones; Does not include light; Designer styled white polymeric grille complements virtually any decor; 15-amp circuit acceptable; Type IC (Insulation Contact); Use with Model 68W or 68V two-function control (available separately); Two blower wheels, each powered by its own permanently lubricated plug-in motor, quietly deliver high-efficiency performance; 1300-watt heater for fast, even heat distribution; Built-in damper prevents backdrafts and eliminates metallic clatter; Adjustable, slotted mounting brackets span up to 24" for easy installation; Polymeric 4" round duct features a 2" long tapered sleeve for easy, positive ducting; All models available in single packs or Project Paks, except where noted.

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Sunday, October 16, 2011

Home Inspection - 12 Common Areas of Defects

!±8± Home Inspection - 12 Common Areas of Defects

The Barrie Home Inspector discusses the twelve most common items found during a home inspection. These are items that are commonly found during a home inspection but are listed in any order of importance.

1. Lot and Roof Drainage

Keeping water out of your house in one of the most important areas to be considered in building design and annual maintenance checklists. Eave troughs collect large amounts of water, average is 160 gallons per hour, which is then directed down to ground level to be dispersed. This is where most systems have problems, from missing extensions to reversed splash pads, and it is important to ensure all water is directed away from your home. I have actually come across homes where the sump pump was pumping water out into the exterior corner of the house where the water ran right back down the foundation to be re-cycled again. Areas around foundations are prone to settling and should be built back up to ensure that any water will flow away from home.

2. Foundations

The primary function of the foundation is to transfer the load of your house unto your footings. Water can enter your home through cracks and holes in your foundation. Cement block foundations are required to be parged and then coated with damp proofing product to prevent this. Poured concrete foundations are required to have form holes sealed to prevent water entry. Minor cracks in foundations can be attributed to settlement of building or shrinkage cracks which would appear in poured concrete foundations. Any crack in your foundation is a potential source of water entry into your basement. If your area has excellent drainage and surface water is not an issue then sealing your cracks yourself could be an option, if not then a professional will seal poured concrete cracks using injected foam or epoxy for around 3 to 600 dollars. Sealing with epoxy will make the cracked area stronger than surrounding untouched area. Horizontal cracks in basements are stress cracks and usually should be inspected by engineer to ensure safety of the home.

3. Cladding

There are many types of cladding used in homes today, we are going to discuss brick veneer and vinyl siding, the most common types of cladding used in new homes in Barrie, ON.

Brick - There are two common types of brick in use today, clay and cement bricks, clay being the most expensive and more durable of the two. The most common defects in brick are caused by poor workmanship and settling of the house or foundation. Checking the brick work for cracks in mortar is very important part of your home inspection. Finding cracks prior to moisture and freezing damage occurring can drastically reduce the amount of work required to repair problem. Corbelled brick corners are an area where cracked mortar is very common but is an easy fix. Step cracks usually indicate a structural type problem is present and deeper investigation is required. Home owners can cause damage to bricks by building planters which allow soil to contact brick, this will result in spalling of brick face and eventually the brick will crumble and require replacement.

Vinyl Siding - This product has proven to be an attractive and low maintenance alternative to brick. If not properly installed vinyl siding can come loose which will make it very susceptible to damage. Properly installed siding has to be able to expand and contract without warping, this is done by not hammering in nails tightly and the fastening slot will allow siding to expand and contract with changing temperatures. Washing your vinyl siding spring and fall is also a good idea as this will help prevent staining from air borne contaminants. Vinyl siding is susceptible to cracking, especially in winter months when cold temperatures can make it extremely brittle.

4. Windows

Windows come in all sizes and shapes with many different types of opening models. We are going to concentrate on mainly the casement style window, as this is the type of window, which commonly has defects. Casement windows commonly have problems with the cranking mechanism. Stripped windows cranks are commonly found on windows in children's bedrooms and are mainly due to the fact that in the winter these windows tend to freeze up and then when the crank is operated, a stripped mechanism results.

Broken seals in thermal units are another common defect found in windows. Windows around 15 years, and older, are usually found to have problems with leaking thermal units. There is a process that involves inserting tiny one-way vents into these units which can eliminate the moisture problem and save you money. The "R" value of windows is not so high that this procedure would create a huge heat loss.

Then there is the common defects in windows, which can include, no caulking, cracked glass panes, improperly trims, sagging headers above windows, require painting and last but not least cracked or rotting wood.

5. Roof

We are going to concentrate on asphalt or fibreglass shingles as this is by far the most common type of product used in new homes today. Shingles can last anywhere from 15 to 25 years depending on quality of product and environment that they endure. Shingles on south side of home usually fail first due to greater exposure to sun and UV radiation. Proper venting is a very important factor that can greatly affect the life of your shingles. Building code requires 1 square foot of vents for every 300 square foot of roof. Ensuring adequate venting is important part of home inspection, a lot of homes have inadequate soffit venting due to insulation preventing continuous movement of air. This allows moisture and heat to build up in your attic and will dramatically reduce life of shingles. Inspecting flashing, valleys, skylights, vents and eave trough are another important factor of your home inspection. Ensure your inspector has a ladder and walks your roof if he is able.

6. Furnace / Air Conditioning

Furnaces have an estimated life span of 15 to 20 years and this can vary greatly with maintenance being the biggest factor in extending life of your furnace. Your furnace cannot have any holes, be rusted through in any area and must be hooked up to an approved venting system. If connected to a "B" vent, a one-inch clearance must be maintained from combustibles, which also includes insulation. Check your flame color, yellow flames indicate incomplete combustion which may be fixed with a simple tune up from your furnace technician. Many furnaces have no cap for filter cover which allows for both heat and cold air to escape into your basement. Your HVAC duct should be taped using metallic duct tape to block any areas where air is escaping from your system. Humidifiers are a common cause of water source for damaging furnaces; they become clogged and overflow allowing water to enter body of furnace causing premature failure of unit.

Central air conditioners are essentially a sealed unit. Using a temperature gauge can determine if unit is operating at a level that is acceptable. I use 58 degrees F as a bench mark in testing in hot weather. This ensures that unit will maintain your home at a comfortable temperature. All lines and insulation are checked for any damage or required replacement.

7. Electrical

The number one concern for homeowners and insurance companies is aluminum wiring. Installed in the early seventies as a substitute for high price copper, aluminum has generated a lot of negative press, some maybe not deserved. Knowledge of aluminum wire is required to be disclosed by the home seller. Consequently some people are creatively hiding aluminum wiring. This might involve installing wire so insulation covers all exposed wire and running copper from main panel to junction boxes where it is connected to the existing aluminum wire.

Adding pony panels, which allowable and recommended, is a great way of expanding your main panels resources. I came across one pony panel, full sized 100 amp, which was powered off supply cables in switch box. This panel was noted in listing as an asset! There are a myriad of minor electrical problems to be checked in your home. Another main panel observation is that many people rather than add a breaker just attach two or more wires to an existing breaker, this is a not permitted and is a potential fire risk. Open junction boxes, missing covers, wiring contacting heat ducts and un-supported wiring are common defects noted on majority of inspections.

8. Plumbing

The other half of the keeping water away from your house equation is your interior plumbing system. Lack of caulking and sub-standard products or workmanship is also a big offender when it comes to keeping your house dry. Galvanized pipe is another item that insurance companies may be concerned about. Galvanized pipe tends to corrode from the inside out leaving no visible signs of impending failure, which tends to make insurance companies a little nervous about insuring homes with galvanized plumbing.

9. Insulation

Homes today have a much higher insulation R-value than older models, the standard for your attic insulation is R-32. Coupled with vapor barriers this is a very important part of your homes building envelope. Many homes have lots of insulation but it has been compromised by workmen installing products such as pot lights and never remedied. The un-suspecting homeowner never realizes the loss of heat and release of moisture that is taking place. I have inspected homes where there has been sun rooms added on and for two or more years that complete area has not had any insulation.

Vermiculite insulation is receiving a lot of attention due to asbestos hazard. Most vermiculite was produced from Libby mine in Montana and contains asbestos. There is some type of vermiculite that has no asbestos risk, which can only be determined by laboratory testing. Homeowners are obligated to disclose any vermiculite insulation that they know of. This is another area where your home inspector can help and possibly save you a lot of money and headaches.

10. Mould or Mold

We are addressing both Canadian and American mould or mold problems, eh!

Mold has been a inspection headliner for quite a number of years. Mold is present everywhere, outside, in your home and sometimes even in the wood you are building with. Moud requires three items to grow, they are; warm environment, protein supply (paper on drywall will do) and moisture. As you can see if you have any water or moisture problems in your home for any length of time then you probably have mold somewhere in your home. That is why it is so important to keep water out of your home and control the water you do have in your home by the proper use of exhaust vents, HRV units and humidity control.

11. Structural

The structural component of your home includes all the items that comprise the supporting elements of your home, which include but are limited to; footings, floors, foundation, walls, columns and piers and roofing system. Visual inspection involves looking for cracks, missing supports, under-sized support construction, twisted or cracked beams, joists, rafters, trusses or support members. Consider your structure as the exterior and interior framework that encompasses your home. Defects in this system can be considered serious and should not be taken lightly as you whole home depends on this system.

12. Miscellaneous

Here is a quick list of some of the items that I have come across that might not have been discussed above:

Septic tanks - Water pooling at the end of your bed or signs of effluent leaking are sure signs that you have some kind or septic bed problem. Buyer beware!
Chimney - Masonry chimneys can be visually ok but not approved for type of appliance you are using. Wood stoves and fireplaces usually require WETT cert for insurance.
Caulking - Any two different surfaces that are exposed to weather should be caulked. For example your window and siding should always be caulked.
Trees - Ensure there are no dead trees on property that might damage your house or any of your neighbor's property. Also trim branches away from any siding or roofing product.
Concrete Steps - Must be either cantilevered or on frost footing.
Handrails - Required to be 900 mm high in most exterior applications.
Decks - If over 23 5/8 inches (600mm) from ground are required to have guards & handrails.
Basement Bedrooms - Required to have separate exit on same level or window that is minimum area of 0.35 M2 with no dimension being less than 15 inches (380 mm).
Bathrooms - shall have either exhaust fan or opening window.
Hot Water Heater - Safety Pressure valve shall have vent directing blow-off to floor.
Garages - Required to have fume barrier and auto door closure if interior door installed.

These are just some of the common types of defects encountered during a residential home inspection, there are thousands of items that could possibly be identified.

Brought to you by Barrie Home Inspector


Home Inspection - 12 Common Areas of Defects

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Friday, October 14, 2011

Installing a Bathroom Fan

!±8± Installing a Bathroom Fan

Installing a bathroom fan is important in modern homes to reduce excessive moisture that can cause damage to paint and walls. The time to plan for a bathroom exhaust system is while the walls and ceilings are still open from new construction or remodeling.

Most bathroom fans have a metal box that needs to be installed between the ceiling rafters or floor joists. The fan will fit into this box as part of the finish work or final appliance installation.

The ceiling or attic is the best place to run the exhaust vent. A dryer vent hose makes the best vent because of its flexibility and low cost. One end of the flex hose attaches to the outlet in the metal box with a large hose clamp. The other end of the exhaust vent will lead to an opening in the roof or the soffit.

There are several types of exhaust fans available. If it's a simple fan, then you can use a regular light switch to turn it on and off. If there's a light and a heater with the fan, then you will need to use three switches to control each. There are some really nice triple switches that work well for these types of fixtures.

Be sure to turn off the breaker at the breaker box and make sure that other people in the house know what you're doing with electricity.

Let's say we're wiring a light and fan combination. We can use 12-3 NM sheathed cable which has three wires and a ground wire. From the switch we'll need to have the circuit wires to provide the power. We will run the 12-3 cable from the switch box to the fan. There will be a red wire, a black wire, and a white wire, along with a copper ground wire.

We'll use a double switch that fits into one switch box. The 12-3 cable that runs from the fan to the switch can be wired first. You will need to wire the red wire to one of the hot receptacle screws on the switch. The black wire can be connected to the other hot receptacle screw. These will usually be on the same side of the switch.

The switch will also have a screw that attaches to the house circuit power. The black wire that comes from the power circuit will connect to the switch giving it power. The white wire from the circuit power and the white wire from the fan can be joined together with a wire nut. You can also attach the copper ground wires together with a wire nut.

Tuck all of the wires into the switch box and secure the switch in place.

Next, you will wire the fan and light with the 12-3 cable. There will be four wires with this fixture. The red wire from the fan will connect to the red wire from the 12-3 cable. There will be black wire from the fan light. It will connect to the black wire from the cable. The white wire can be connected with the other white wire and the ground copper wire can be connected with the cable ground wire with a wire nut.

Secure the fan in place with the attachment screws. Turn on the breaker to make sure that each component works when you flip the switch.


Installing a Bathroom Fan

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