Wednesday, December 28, 2011

Easy-To-Fix Plumbing Issues For The Do-It-Yourselfer

!±8± Easy-To-Fix Plumbing Issues For The Do-It-Yourselfer

Most homeowners are unaware that the majority of water heaters have a magnesium bar called an anode rod installed in their heater. It can be identified by looking at the top of the water heater for a hexagonal fitting. This rod is designed to help keep the tank from corroding by simply beating it to the punch and corroding first. However, when the bar finally corrodes and falls apart, your tank is the next target for corrosion. Believe it or not, you can increase the life of your water heater substantially by making sure that this anode rod is replaced before it disappears. A rule of thumb is to replace the rod every three to four years depending on the corrosiveness of your water. If you don't have this hexagonal fitting on the top of your water heater, make sure that the next water heater does because it can potentially double the useful life of your water heater saving you a lot of cash.

The replacement of the anode rod is fairly simple and straightforward. Turn off the cold water supply to your water heater first. Next, turn off the gas line or the circuit breaker. Using a standard garden hose attached to the drain at the bottom of the heater, remove several gallons of water. Remove the anode rod with a pipe wrench or similar tool. Sometimes a long handled tool is necessary to get enough leverage to loosen the fitting.

Purchase a comparable anode rod at your local hardware store, home center or plumbing supply house. If a bendable rod is available, consider purchasing it to make installation easier if you have little headroom to work with. Remember, the old rod will probably be only a fragment of its original length and won't give you a true idea of the room you need to install its replacement. Before installing the new anode rod, wrap the threads with Teflon tape to create a better seal. Make a note of when you made the replacement on or near the water heater (my wife recently asked me when the I replaced the air filter on our furnace - I said it was just a few weeks ago - actually it was seven weeks earlier - time does have a habit of getting away from us).

Another problem that homeowners face with water heaters are occasional bumps and other strange sounds coming from their water heater. These noises are a result of steam that is being generated inside the water heater. This steam results from the flame heating accumulated junk resting on the bottom of the heater. The water lodged inside the junk becomes hot enough to create steam bubbles, which eventually rise and turn back into hot water. When these steam bubbles burst, they create those unpleasant sounds.

Unfortunately, if you have hard water, this junk in the form of scale and sediment form fairly quickly and need to be drained every few weeks. You need to put this task on the calendar (you do have a calendar?) so time doesn't slip away. Nearly all hot water heaters have a drain near the bottom of the tank. Using a standard garden hoe, drain off several gallons of water that should be loaded with the aforementioned junk. When you eventually replace the water heater, look for a model that has a device built-in that reduces the volume of sediment that builds up.

Lime buildup is common in toilet bowls. The fix is easy. First, shut off the valve that supplies water to the toilet and then flush the toilet several times until it is empty. Soak paper towels with distilled white vinegar and lay them over the lime deposits letting them soak for a few hours. After removing the towels, use a scrub brush to remove any remaining lime sediment.

For the ambitious, you can keep your house drains open by using a recipe of a cup of baking soda, a cup of regular salt and a fourth of a cup of cream of tartar powder. You only need about a quarter of a cup of this solution per drain, adding a few cups of boiling water as a chaser.

Ah, the caulking between the tub and the wall. It seems that no matter who does the job or what they use, cracks will eventually appear. Before making repairs, fill the tub with water, which will weigh it down slightly. Roll up your pants (or whatever) and apply the caulk. When you drain the tub, it moves upward slightly, compressing the caulk and eliminating the possibility of ending up with new cracks the first time you use the bathtub.


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Thursday, December 22, 2011

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Saturday, December 10, 2011

Plumbing | Electrical | Contractor | Plumber | Licensed | Home adjustment | Washington Indiana

www.newlifeconstructioninc.com Licensed Plumber, New Installations & Repairs. New Life Construction has been serving Daviess County Indiana and surrounding areas for over 26 years. We are a licensed Plumbing contractor in the State of Indiana and handle all types of Plumbing problems. Call us for your Emergency Plumbing repair jobs, we will fix the Leak, Frozen Pipes, Toilet Tank, Kitchen Faucet or even that occasional Stopped up Drain. Want to install a water Softener, Whole house Filter system, Reverse Osmosis, Water Heater Installation or just hook up the water supply to a Refrigerator so you can have the Ice Maker and the Water work, call us and we'll take care of all those and more. Wet Basements need Sump Pumps and well can help you keep that Basement dry so you have more Storage space. Electrical, Breaker Box, New wire Installations & Repairs" Thinking about Hooking up a Hot tub, Spa or maybe you just want to relocate an existing appliance, we can run the wiring and electrical that is necessary to get you up and running. Perhaps you want to install some new Ceiling Fans, Lighting Fixtures, or how about a New Surround Sound in your new Theater Room? Call us and we'll get you Wired for sound. Electrical repairs can be dangerous if let go too long, don't let that broken socket, outlet or switch go any longer, call us and we'll switch them out so you can have piece of mind that the job is done right. Provided by www.daviesscountyfirst.com

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Monday, December 5, 2011

Improve Energy Efficiency - Saving Energy With Indoor Air Movement

!±8± Improve Energy Efficiency - Saving Energy With Indoor Air Movement

1. Introduction

Air movement can play an important role in the thermal comfort of man and beast. A breeze on a humid summer day can make a significant difference to one's thermal comfort. Recent strategies for improving energy-efficiency in buildings attempt to take account of the cooling effects of air movement from natural ventilation. When the building envelope is closed for air conditioning, local air movement is kept below 40 ft/min. This ignores the option of increased air movement to reduce the cooling energy in air conditioned space. This paper explores opportunities for saving energy by utilizing the effects of indoor air movement.

2. Cooling energy savings in air conditioned space from elevated air speed

The current edition of ANSI/ASHRAE Standard 55-2004 Thermal Environmental Conditions for Human Occupancy (ASHRAE, 2004), provides for limited increases of summer thermostat temperature settings by increased local air speed. Figure 1 is derived from Figure 5.2.3 in the Standard 55-2004.

The curves of equal heat loss from the skin for combinations of operative temperature and air movement are referenced to the upper limit of the comfort zone (PMV= +0.5). Limits of 160 fpm and 5.4ºF are set for sedentary activity, 1.0 to 1.3 met. Large individual differences in preferred air speed
requires that occupants have personal control of air speed in increments of 30 ft/min.

The Standard states that it is acceptable to interpolate between these curves. Air speed is more effective at offsetting increases in temperature when mean radiant temperature is greater than the mean dry bulb air temperature.

It should be noted that there are two errors in Figure 5.2.3 of the Standard. The "18°C" should read "18°F" and there is a scaling error between the fpm and m/s scales.

Five separate curves are provided to accommodate temperature differences of -18°F, -9°F, 0.0°F, +9°F, and +18°F between mean radiant temperature, tr , and mean dry bulb air temperature, ta. The writer fitted equations to the portion of the curves limited to sedentary activity of 160 fpm and 5.4°F for 1.0 met to 1.3 met and 0.5 to 0.7 clo.

The writer also fitted equations to the portion of the curves for activity beyond the sedentary limits. Cooling effect limits for these equations fitted to curves in Figure 5.2.3 in the Standard 55-2004 were 300 fpm and 8°F.

2.1 Curve for tr - ta = 0.0 K

For tr - ta = 0.0°F, an air speed of 160 fpm permits a thermostat set point increase of 4.4°F limit for light sedentary activity (1 to 1.3 met) and 0.5 to 0.7 clo.

V = 40 + 6.8”t 1.85 (1)
Where V is the mean relative air speed in fpm and ”t is the cooling effect in °F.

In most thermostatically controlled air conditioned spaces, wall, ceiling and floor surfaces temperatures are close to air temperature. That is tr - ta = 0°F. Conditions when tr -- ta is not zero include spaces with poorly insulated windows, walls or ceilings where the outer surface is exposed to direct solar radiation or cold winter conditions.

2.2 Curve for tr - ta = +9°F

For tr - ta = +9°F an air speed of 160 fpm permits a thermostat set point increase of 5.4°F limit for light sedentary activity (1 to 1.3 met) and 0.5 to 0.7 clo.

V = 40 + 1.26”t 2.85 (2)
Where V is the mean relative air speed in fpm and ”t is the cooling effect in °F.

2.3 Curve for tr - ta = +18°F

For tr - ta = +18°F an air speed of 126 fpm permits a thermostat set point increase of 5.4°F limit for light sedentary activity (1 to 1.3 met) and 0.5 to 0.7 clo.

V = 40 + 1.28”t 2.7 (3)

3. Beyond Sedentary Activity limits

The Standard is not clear on constraints for the portions of the curves up to 89°Fand 300 fpm, beyond the limits set for sedentary activity. Studies have measured the cooling effect of air movement up to 600 fpm in warm climate conditions (Khedari et al, 2000, Tanabe and Kimura, 1994, and Scheatzie et al, 1989). Air movement higher than 160 fpm is used in air conditioned gymnasia and shopping malls to augment cooling of occupants. The writer has fitted equations to the portion of the curves for activity beyond the sedentary limits

For tr - ta = 0.0°F an air speed of 300 fpm indicates the thermostat set point increase could be 6.6°F at activity levels higher than 1.3 met.

V = 40 + 2.52”t 2.5 (4)

Limits for Equation 4 are 160 fpm to 300 fpm and 4.4 F to 6.6 F

For tr - ta = +9ºF an air speed of 276 fpm permits a thermostat set point increase of 8ºF at activity levels higher than 1.3 met.

V = 40 + 5.7”t 1.8 (5)

Limits to Equation 5 are 160 fpm to 280 fpm and 5.4ºF to 8ºF .
For tr - ta = +18ºF an air speed of 211 fpm indicates the thermostat set point increase could be 8ºF at activity levels higher than 1.3 met.

V = 40 + 6.3”t 1.59 (6)

Limits for Equation 6 are 132 fpm to 209 fpm and 5.48ºF to 8ºF.

4. Estimating Cooling Energy Savings

The electrical US utility corporation Exeloncorp (2005), suggests that domestic air conditioning cooling costs can be reduced by 3% to 4% for each ºF that the thermostat setting is raised in summer.

Occupants can offset an increased thermostat setting of 4.7ºF by providing 160 fpm of low-cost air flow from circulator fans and enjoy normal comfort while saving air conditioning operating cost. On the basis of the Exeloncorp (2005) recommendation, an increase in the thermostat setting of 4.7ºF would provide cooling energy savings from 14% to 19%. In gymnasia where higher air movement is acceptable the savings from a thermostat increase of 8ºF could be from 24% to 32%. A detailed analysis of reduction in residential cooling loads due to air flow was performed for six US cities in a variety of climate zones (Byrne and Huang, 1986)

5. Comparison of fans and room air conditioners

A detailed comparison of the energy required to maintain the same thermal comfort in a 141.5 ft2 bedroom in Townsville, Hope (2003), was conducted using a 55 inch diameter residential ceiling fan and a VF100C Carrier window/wall room air conditioner, sized for the room by engineers at the local distributor. The measured rate of power consumption of a 55 inch diameter ceiling fan operating at its top speed was 0.068kW or 0.48 W/ft2 of floor area. This is 8.7% of the power used by the room air conditioner to achieve the same thermal comfort. The rate of power consumption of the window/wall room air conditioner was 0.78 kW, or 5.51 W/ft2 of floor area. This is 11.5 times the power used by the ceiling fan.

6. Destratification

In heated spaces in winter, indoor air tends to stratify with the hottest, less dense, air accumulating under the roof due to the gravity force. This condition creates two problems. Firstly the hottest air is not contributing to the thermal comfort of occupants near floor level, and secondly, it creates a high temperature difference between the underside of the roof and the exterior of the roof that increases heat losses through the roof.

Destratification is the process of thoroughly mixing indoor so that air temperature near the floor is the same as the air temperature under the roof, or no more than 2ºF difference. This is done using circulator fans. In a typical US distribution warehouse with a 30 ft high ceiling, the seasonal heating energy savings from effective destratification is around 20% to 30%. To be effective about one half of the total volume of air in the space needs to be moved from ceiling level to floor level per hour.

To be effective in destratification the fan should be no more than 1 diameter below the ceiling and the jet from the fan must impact on the floor in order to achieve effective circulation. Jets from ceiling fans have an effective throw of 5 to 6 diameters.

In large buildings with high ceilings such as churches, industrial buildings or distribution warehouses, a large volume of air needs to be circulated. In order to avoid complaints of drafts from occupants, the local air velocity at head height needs to be kept less than 40 ft/min.

Circulator fans are much more energy-efficient at low speeds, so large diameter, slow moving, fans are well suited for destratification. One 24 ft diameter industrial ceiling fan operating at top speed of 42 rpm uses 1.67 kW of electrical power but only 0.06 kW operating at 14 rpm its peak efficiency. At 42 rpm this fan delivers around 337,700 cfm of air and 76,670 cfm at 14 rpm. An added benefit of operating large fans at low speed compared to smaller fans at higher speeds is the reduction in fan noise. Large slow moving fans are virtually silent.

7. Estimating Destratification Energy Savings

A recommended method for estimating heating energy savings from destratification is to determine the lumped seasonal heat transfer rate for the building envelope and determine the difference in heat loss before and after destratification (Pignet and Saxena, 2002).

The lumped seasonal heat transfer rate for the building envelope in Watts can be calculated using:

A x U = qbd / (ti -to) (7)

Where: A is the surface area of the building envelope in ft2; U is the lumped heat transfer coefficient for the building envelope in Btu/ft2.h.ºF; qbd is the rate of heat loss through the building envelope in Btu/h before destratification; and ti -to is the average heating season indoor to outdoor air temperature difference in ºF.

The total heat lost from the building is the sum of heat released from furnaces plus heat released in the space from other sources such as lighting, people, machinery or manufacturing processes. The heat released from the furnaces can be determined from the fuel bills for the season, the caloric value of the heating fuel and the system efficiency. The caloric value of natural gas is around 1000 Btu/ft3. The time used in these calculations is the heating season associated with the measured fuel consumption.

Forced air furnaces with flues have efficiencies around 0.7. Radiant heaters without flues have an efficiency of 0.8. Electrical heaters have an efficiency of 1.0. Heat from other sources is estimated in the normal way as set out in HVAC handbooks (ASHRAE, 2005).

With the overall heat loss U x A for the heating season before destratification determined, the reduction in heating after destratification, qad can be determined from:

qad = U x A x (tibd - tiad) (8)

Where: qad = Reduced heat load after destratification in Btu/hr; U = Lumped time-averaged heat loss rate for the building envelope in Btu/hr.ft2.ºF ; A = Surface area of the building envelope, ft2; tibd = Heating season average indoor air temperature before destratification,,°F;; This depends on vertical temperature profile. This should be measured on site because the shape of the temperature profile can vary substantially depending on type of heaters, their height above floor level, and how ventilation is provided; tiad = Heating season average indoor air temperature after destratification, °F. This is taken as the thermostat set point as the indoor air temperature throughout the space is close to uniform after destratification.

The reduced heating load due to destratification can be converted into a quantity of fuel taking into account the efficiency of the heating system and the caloric value of the fuel. The heating fuel cost saving typically between 20% and 30% is calculated using the unit cost of fuel.

8. Thermal comfort in Non-air Conditioned Space

The ANSI/ASHRAE 55-2004 Standard offers a method for determining an acceptable range of indoor operative temperature in occupant-controlled, naturally conditioned spaces. Occupant-controlled, naturally conditioned spaces are defined as spaces where thermal conditions of the space are regulated primarily by the occupants through opening and closing windows. These are spaces with no refrigerated air conditioning, radiant cooling, or desiccant cooling. Fans can be used when natural ventilation does not provide sufficient air movement.
In such spaces, occupants have different expectations of thermal comfort and accept wider ranges of thermal conditions in both winter and summer than occupants of air conditioned spaces. This method is intended for climates where mean monthly air temperatures fall in the range of 50°F to 92°F. This method is generally described as the Adaptive Model (de Dear and Schiller (2001).

Using the adaptive approach, the first step is to determine the average monthly temperature for each month of the cooling season for the location. In ventilated buildings without air conditioning, temperature for operative comfort toc, is based on mean monthly outdoor air temperature tout, and can be calculated using the following equation (ASHRAE, 2005).

toc = 66 + 0.255(tout - 32) (9)

The comfort zone range of operative temperature to satisfy 80% of acclimatized people can be read of a graph in the Standard or by adding and subtracting 6.3 ºF to the operative comfort temperature.

With a mean daily air temperature of 83.6ºF in the city of Houston during July, toc = 66 + 0.255(83.6 -32)= 79.2 ºF. The thermal comfort zone to satisfy 80% of people in July is then 72.9ºF to 85.5ºF.

Given the long term average monthly outdoor air temperature for Houston TX in July is 83.6ºF, this presents the average need for a cooling effect from air movement in January of 83.6ºF - 79.2ºF or 4.4ºF to restore the operative temperature to the norm. The question now is how much air movement is needed to achieve a cooling effect of 4.4ºF? Using the data from Khedari et al (2000), for a warm humid climate with a relative humidity of 75% indicates 87 fpm is needed for a 4.4ºF cooling effect.

9. Cooling effects of air movement in naturally conditioned spaces

The US Naval Medical Command (1988) in a chapter on relieving heat stress published data on the relative cooling effect of air movement Figure 7. These data do not provide a quantitative cooling effect but are useful in that they indicate the maximum cooling effect occurs with air movement around 1,500 fpm.

In naturally conditioned space, there is no control of humidity. As the cooling effect of air movement in warm environments relates to evaporative cooling from sweating, it has been shown that as humidity increases, the cooling effect of air movement decreases. The reduced cooling effect is much greater in warm humid environments when air movement needed for thermal comfort exceeds 295 fpm, Figure 6 (Khedari et al, 2000). It is important to use cooling effect data derived from local climate and cultural conditions. These data will better reflect the thermal comfort expectations of local people taking into account local dress and typical levels of metabolic activity.

A variety of approaches have been taken by researchers to quantify the cooling effects of air movement. Cooling effects of air movement can effective in hot arid environments were evaporative cooling of the skin is not encumbered by high humidity (Scheatzle et al, 1989).
Another equation derived from several studies (Szokolay, 1998) that is widely used for estimating the cooling effects of air movement from 40 ft/min to 400 ft/min is:

”t = 10.8((V/197.85)-0.2)-1.8((V/197.85)-0.2)2 (11)

Where V is in ft/mim and ”t is in ºF.

Using this equation, air movement of 400 ft/min provides a cooling effect 13.7 ºF. This is equivalent to Khedari et al cooling effect for 400 ft/min at 57% relative humidity in Thailand.

10. Indoor air movement for livestock

Dairy farmers have learned from university studies that thermally comfortable cows' milk production, reproductive health and growth are much better than those of cows subjected to summer heat stress (Sanford, 2004). During hot summer periods dairy farmers have installed small high speed circulator fans to achieve the recommended air movement of 177 ft/min to 433 ft/min. Ten 36 inch diameter fans operating at 825 rpm use 3.73 kW of electrical energy. Farmers have found they can replace 10 of these 36 inch diameter fans with a single 24 ft diameter fan operating at 42 rpm that uses only 1.6 kW of electrical energy while providing the same air movement. Additional cooling can be achieved in drier climate regions using misting water sprays for evaporative cooling.

11. Discussion

All the descriptions of air movement described so far in this document have referred to the average velocity of air movement. Olesen (1985) refers to a study by Fanger and Pedersen of the chilling effect of winter draughts. It was observed in the study that the chilling effect of gusting air flow reached a peak around a gust frequency of 0.5Hz.

More recently researchers in China (Xia et al,2000) repeated these studies inwarm, humid conditions with temperatures ranging from 79ºF to 87ºF and relative humidity between 35% and 65%. These experiments showed that the preferred gust frequency for cooling air movement was between 0.3Hz and 0.5Hz. Approximately 95% of subjects preferred gust frequencies below 0.7Hz. Natural breezes and air flow from large low-speed circulator fans have a significant portion of their energy spectral density around this frequency of 0.5Hz. Olesen (1985) suggested the use of an equivalent uniform air velocity, Table 1, to account for this effect but this enhanced cooling effect has not been specifically accounted for in cooling effects of air movement to date.

12. Conclusions

Current air conditioning design provides for uniform air temperature and humidity throughout a space, with imperceptible local air movement in the occupied zone of less than 40 ft/min. This conventional design is based on air conditioning heating and cooling loads that ignore the substantial savings to be gained from increased indoor air movement from circulator fans.

Recent ASHRAE acceptance of an adaptive thermal comfort model clearly shows that people who live in air conditioned houses, drive air conditioned cars, work in air conditioned offices impair their natural thermal comfort adaptation. This impairment results in unnecessarily high summer cooling loads.

Where naturally conditioned buildings are acceptable, indoor thermal comfort can be achieved with substantial energy savings by better utilization of indoor air movement.

The cooling effect of air movement has been well established by a number of researchers. There remains a need for further research on the cooling effects of air movement on building occupants to accommodate activity levels beyond 1.3 met, higher air velocities for non-sedentary activity, and lighter clothing levels than 0.5 clo. This research is needed in both air conditioned and naturally conditioned spaces.

Research on the cooling effects of air movement has been presented in many forms. The chart produced by Khedari et al (2000) is one the better formats. Further research is needed to develop a form which presents data in a way that makes it more easily used by engineers to improve energy efficiency with increased indoor air movement.

The same circulator fans used to enhance summer thermal comfort can be used to destratify indoor air to save heating energy in winter. This particularly applies to commercial or industrial spaces with high ceilings.

References

ASHRAE (2005) ASHRAE 2005 Handbook of Fundamentals, ASHRAE, Atlanta, GA. Page 26.11.

ASHRAE (2004) ANSI/ASHRAE Standard 55-2004 Thermal Environmental Conditions for Human Occupancy. ASHRAE, Atlanta, GA.

Byrne, S. and Huang, V.(1986) The impact of wind-induced ventilation on residential cooling load and human comfort. ASHRAE Trans. Vol.92, Pt. 2, 793-802.

de Dear, R. and Schiller Brager, G. (2001) The adaptive model for thermal comfort and energy conservation in the built environment. Int. J. Biometeorology, 45: 100-108.

Exeloncorp (2005) Controlling Temperatures is accessible on the internet at:
http://www.exeloncorp.com

Fountain, M. (1995) An empirical model for predicting air movement preferred in warm office environments. Standards for thermal comfort: Indoor air temperatures for the 21st century. Edited by F. Nicol, M. Humphreys, O. Sykes and S. London, Roaf, E & F Spon. pp. 78-85.

Hope, P (2003) Energy efficiency ratings: Implications for the building industry in the humid tropics. Master in Tropical Architecture dissertation, Australian Institute of Tropical Architecture, James Cook University, Townsville, Australia, pp. 377.

Khedari, J., Yamtraipat, N., Pratintong, N. and Hinrunlabbh, J. (2000) Thailand ventilation comfort chart. Energy and Buildings, Vol. 32, pp. 245-249.

Naval Medical Command (1988) Manual Of Naval Preventive Medicine, Chapter 3, page 3-7. Accessible on the internet at:
[http://www.vnh.org/PreventiveMedicine/PDF/P-5010-3.pdf]

Olesen, B. (1985) Local thermal discomfort. Bruel & Kjaer Technical Review, No.1, Denmark, pp.3-42.

Pignet, Tom and Saxena, Umesh (2002) Estimation of energy savings due to destratification of air in plants, Energy Engineering, Vol 99, No. 1, 69-72.

Sanford, S. (2004) Energy conservation in agriculture: Ventilation and cooling systems for animal housing. University of Wisconnsin Cooperative Extension publication A3784-6, pp.3.

Scheatzle, D., Wu, H. and Yellott, J.(1989) Extending the summer comfort envelope with ceiling fans in hot, arid climates. ASHRAE Trans. Vol.100, Pt. 1, 269-280.

Szokolay, S. (1998) Thermal comfort in the warm-humid tropics, Proceedings of the 31st Annual Conference of the Australian and New Zealand Arch. Science Association, Uni. of Queensland., Brisbane, Sept.29-Oct.3, pp. 7-12.

Tanabe, S and Kimura, K. (1994) Importance of air movement for thermal comfort under hot and humid conditions. ASHRAE Trans. Vol. 100, Pt. 2, 953-969.

Xia, Y., Zhao, R. and Xu, W. (2000) Human thermal sensation to air movement frequency. Reading, UK. Proceedings of the 7th International Conference on Air Distribution in Rooms. Vol.1, pp. 41-46.


Improve Energy Efficiency - Saving Energy With Indoor Air Movement

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Tuesday, November 29, 2011

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** www.exite-listings.com This is a wonderful "Tim Horning" Custom Home The perfect cabin getaway in the woods with huge unblockable mountain views So inviting from the moment you walk in, the family will never want to leave The kitchen has plenty of counter space, a pantry and golden pine wood floors that leads into the dining area Open to the living room this has aspen ceilings Snuggle by the wood burning fireplace and enjoy the huge mountain views through theexpansive surrounding windows The master is on the main along with a guest bedroom The downstair has a wonderful famly room or use it as a 3rd bedroom with nine foot ceilings, separate bathroom, and a wonderful walk-out deck Some of the special touches to this home include the laundry chute inthe master bath, remote for light and fan, nine foot ceiling downstairs, molding all rounded throughout the home so no corners, recessed kitchen lighting,fireplace has a heat-o-lator, laundry room in the garage with laundry shoot, all outside doors ar steel, fully blown foam insulation makes this home toasty inthe winter With over 500 feet of decking to enjoythe stars at night while in your jacuzzi, giant pines and wildlife Walking distance to national forest where you can enjoy snowmobiling,biking, hiking and more or simply enjoy the walking paths throughout this 5 acres wonderland that leads to a serenity park where you can clear your mind All this and at a great price, this is Colorado living at it's best! Virtual Tour: www ...

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Tuesday, November 22, 2011

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Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Broan Model 659 Heater/Fan/Light, 50 CFM 2.5 Sones, White Grille

!±8± Broan Model 659 Heater/Fan/Light, 50 CFM 2.5 Sones, White Grille

Brand : Broan-NuTone | Rate : | Price : $110.52
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Monday, October 31, 2011

Removal and Prevention of Black Mold

!±8± Removal and Prevention of Black Mold

Black mold is a problem people have been dealing with for years. However, it hasn't been until recently that we are beginning to understand the negative impact it can have in our lives. Toxic types of mold do not discriminate and they are quite common. Black mold, in particular, has caused numerous health problems ranging from headaches and dizziness to full on breathing difficulties requiring hospitalization. It is for this reason, entire schools and workplaces have been shut down for mold treatment.

How to Identify Black Mold

This type of mold has a greenish-black appearance and a slimy texture. It can be difficult to judge by appearance alone if mold growth is black mold, but can be a good indication that it requires removal. No matter the color of texture of mold, it should be considered dangerous as any mold in the home will be spreading spores which may be toxic. A musty or moldy smell can often be the first sign and a good indication that there is a mold problem in the home.

Black mold often colonizes on porous organic surfaces such as drywall, ceiling tiles and carpet. It is especially at home on drywall which has sustained a continuous bout of water and humidity levels consistently over 60 percent. Identifying which type of mold is present is an important step in determining how to remove the problem. It is widely assumed this is an expensive process. However, there are inexpensive ways of testing for toxic mold which can be done yourself. Keep reading for how to test whether you have a toxic or mild mold problem.

Symptoms of Toxic Black Mold Poisoning

If you have a black mold problem in the home, even at small degree, it is likely someone will be affected. These spores are high-level allergens producing mycotoxins which flow through the air, your air/heating system and will be inhaled into the lungs. Short term problems include headaches, colds, flu, frequent sinus infections and respiratory problems. Long term, the effects of toxic mold poisoning are still being studied, however, the results we do have are not good. Memory loss, weakness, permanent respiratory difficulties and possible debilitating disease. It is best to not take any chances. If you suspect a mold problem go first to the source.

Where to Start

A water leak or problem is the appropriate place to begin when it comes to an obvious or suspected mold growth. In some cases, this may result in a plumber coming to the home to repair any damage from busted pipes, leaking shower stalls or a broken water heater. Having to hire a professional plumber should be considered as a necessity when the job is out of the scope of the home owners expertise. Like mold growth itself, putting this off will only result in further damages to your home and a decline in health.

Once the leak issue is fixed, you may consider testing for the severity and type of mold.

How to Test for Mold Growth

Testing for black mold or any toxic mold can be done in two ways. Surface testing or air sample testing.

Surface testing usually consists of applying a strip of sticky tape to an exposed mold surface then sampling for the type. This is an easy way to test for whether you are dealing with toxic mold but is not effective in determining the severity of the problem and in many situations, actual mold growth can be out of view.

Air sampling draws particles into a reservoir to allow for organic testing of mold spores. This is an effective way to test for mold growth concentration leading to an assessment of how much mold you are dealing with and the type involved. Do keep in mind that in many cases, different types of toxic mold can coexist even within the same colony.

The most effective measure of mold sampling is a combination of both methods. By doing a little research, one can find cost effective do it yourself mold testing kits of good enough quality to at least rule out the consideration of having a professional mold remediation company consulted.

Black Mold Removal

Black mold or any toxic mold for that matter can be removed safely by home owners when the surface area affected is less than three by three feet. If you suspect dealing with a larger problem than this, a mold removal company may be consulted to come out to your home for an inspection and estimation of cost.

If you decide to remove toxic mold yourself, you should begin by turning off your air/heating unit. Not doing so will result in spores being distributed all about your home where they can form additional colonies of growth. If the mold problem is in a bathroom, you may have an exhaust fan which can be turned on to help funnel any spores released during cleaning to the outside. If no exhaust fan is available, try creating a draft through an open window.

Always seal off the area in which you are removing dangerous molds. This can be done by sealing off the area with polyethylene sheets and tape. The purpose of this step is for containment, as it is of highest priority.

Using a mixture of soap and water, gently remove the mold from the surface area. Afterward, apply a coating of mold disinfectant to the area it once was and a wider area several feet out to ensure all spores have been disinfected. Dormant mold spores can live on for several years, so it's important to kill all you can.

If the surface you are cleaning is damaged permanently, it may need replaced completely. Although, this isn't always necessary. However, because the are porous, wet drywall or ceiling tiles which have become warped and moldy through constant moisture will most likely need replacing.

A dehumidifier can be used to both dry out an area after clean up and keep humidity levels below 60 percent continuously to prevent further mold growth. Consider relative humidity sensors as well since no part of the home will have the same humidity level present. Both of these can be purchased for a reasonable cost.

Black mold can end up being a huge cost and health problem if it is left to grow without interruption. Take action as soon as you see or smell any mold, assume it's dangerous. Your home and family will thank you for it with good health.


Removal and Prevention of Black Mold

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Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Home Energy Savings: New House Design and Energy Conservation

!±8± Home Energy Savings: New House Design and Energy Conservation

Consumers in North America are getting ready for the 2005 / 2006 winter season as we write this report and most are bracing themselves for larger energy bills during the coming winter heating season than past years. Recent spikes in energy costs for all types of energy including gasoline, heating oil, electricity and natural gas are causing many consumers to begin thinking about how they heat their homes and whether they can save money. In our discussion we will use the term "energy" to refer to all of the previous forms of fuel that is used in our homes.

Energy conservation begins with the design and construction of a new home and carries through to your daily living habits. Consumers who have the most success in terms of reducing their energy bills have made energy conservation a way of life, while enjoying their new homes in comfort.

Many homeowners have the potential to reduce their heating bills by as much as 50% or more. They can achieve these savings with a logical, well planned approach beginning with the design of the home, proper construction techniques, well insulated windows, doors, and walls and then follow through with daily, monthly and annual operational techniques.

Consumers who have designed and insulated their home with energy conservation in mind will be able to maximize their savings if they make energy conservation part of their every day life. The common objectives of living in a comfortable home and managing your energy consumption can easily be met by following a few simple rules.

Systems Approach to Energy Savings

Our homes are really a complex environment that must be managed to ensure that we live comfortably, have sufficient fresh air, while controlling our energy consumption at the same time. Essentially, a well planned home will take into account the amount of energy intake from energy sources such as our heating system as well as solar heating vs. energy loss from the effects of cold weather, heat loss through windows, doors, walls and floors as well as heat reduction when we use air conditioning systems in hot climates.

In the winter we are concerned about the cost of heating our homes and the loss of heat to the outside through leakage of cold air into our homes. The summer brings the reverse when we must cool our homes and manage the cooling during hot summer days. In both cases solar heat plays a part in the equation as well as how well sealed our homes are. Consumers living in colder climates will be more concerned about winter heating costs while consumers living in southern areas of the continent will worry about the cost of air conditioning.

Taking a systems approach to managing your energy costs is one way to ensure that you maximize your savings and make a positive contribution to the environment through reduced energy usage. Energy conservation and home design begins with the orientation of your home to maximize the heating of your home by natural solar heating in colder climates and avoiding solar heating in hot climates. Next, consumers can take advantage of natural shade or by adding trees to provide shade during hot summer days and also act as wind breaks to reduce the impact of the cooling effects that the wind can have on the amount of energy they use.

Once you have considered these elements, consumers should use the latest techniques in designing their homes with high insulation values in the walls, energy efficient heating and cooling systems as well as energy efficient appliances. For example your air conditioning unit should be energy efficient and placed were it will be in the shade as much as possible to maximize its efficiency. Selection of fluorescent lighting, taking advantage of natural lighting are additional elements to be considered in the design of your new home. Visit our home energy checklist for more details on steps you can take to reduce your energy costs at the design stage of your home.

Consumers may also want to invest in an energy audit of their homes design before agreeing to the final design. A relatively low cost audit can sometimes save thousands of dollars in energy costs over the life of their home.

Our Home Energy Checklist

We have assembled a home energy checklist with both the new home buyer / builder in mind as well as items to check after you have moved in. Our objective is to assist you in saving energy, which means money in your pocket during the design as well as after you have moved into your new home. Saving energy can be divided into four areas: Home Design; Appliance & Lighting Selection, Energy Conservation - A Way of Life. This total systems and life style approach is really geared to maximizing your energy savings.

You might have the most efficient energy saving home built, however if you move in and leave all of the lights on all the time, leave the windows open when you are heating the house or cooling, your energy saving initiatives will not be as affective as you might have thought.

With this in mind our energy savings checklist applies to the design phase as well as after you have moved into your new home. Even consumers who have been in their homes for a few years will find this checklist useful for managing their energy consumption.

Designing New Homes and Energy Conservation

Most home designers and architects are up to date on energy conservation techniques, however they are also geared to meeting their customers needs and priorities for their home designs. Many consumers will consider home energy management almost as an after thought when it is too late to incorporate energy savings concepts into their new home design. As you and your home designer or architect discuss your plans and your objectives for your new home, always emphasize that energy management and home comfort are a very important element of the final design that your are looking for.

Designing a new home actually begins with site selection and orientation of your home on the property. Depending on the climate consumers will want to orient their homes on the property to manage the amount of solar heating that the house will be exposed to. A common theme throughout this report is to orient your home so that the sun can heat the home naturally in the winter, while minimizing the effects of solar heating during hot summer days. Adding trees or shrubs to provide shade and taking advantage of natural land formations to provide shelter from prevailing winds is the first step in managing your energy costs.

Construction of the foundation for homes varies a great deal across the continent. In some locales a below grade basement is mandatory, while in other locations a concrete slab is standard. In both situations, insulation is a key component to maintain comfortable living conditions while reducing your energy costs. Insulation can be added below the slab of concrete and all basement walls should be properly sealed and insulated to at least R20 levels. All exposed hot water pipes can be insulated as well in addition.

Walls should be insulated to at least R20, while attics should have insulation to a level of R40. Floors over crawl spaces will be warmer and you will lose less energy if the floors are also insulated. Many customers will select wall to wall carpeting for additional insulation and warmth, however if you prefer ceramic, marble or hardwood floors, area rugs can be used as decoration as well as providing a warm surface to walk on. Ceiling fans are another inexpensive way to distribute naturally heated air.

Consumers can select windows and doors that are energy rated with triple pane windows and insulated steel doors. Adding a storm door to the outside increases the level of insulating and energy savings that you can achieve. During the winter consumers will enjoy the warmth of the suns ray's through the windows, while summer months the windows can be covered to reduce the heating affects of the sun. Selection of window coverings, while meeting aesthetic requirements can also support energy saving concepts as well.

The selection of lighting fixtures with fluorescent lighting and also taking into account natural lighting can reduce your lighting costs significantly. Incorporate timers, motion detectors, photo cells at appropriate locations in your home to assist in managing your lighting needs as well as energy usage.

Bathroom design as well as all areas were water is used should incorporate flow restrictors to minimize the use of cold and hot water.

Everyone loves to have a fireplace in their home. A fireplace can generate a huge loss of energy if not managed properly and designed with energy conservation in mind. Natural wood burning fireplaces have the lowest efficiency, while sealed gas fireplaces can be very efficient, while still providing the ambiance that many consumers are looking for.

The selection and use of your appliances can have a significant impact on your energy costs. Old appliances may be energy guzzlers, while new appliances should be chosen based on their energy ratings. Selecting a high efficiency furnace, air conditioner and water heater is a first step. Consider purchasing new appliances instead of moving your appliances from your last home. Electronic ignition of gas appliances, taking advantage of shade for your air conditioner and using a digital thermostat that allows timed control of your homes interior temperature are all elements of the energy design of your home.

One final comment about new home design is in order. Consumers may also want to arrange for an energy audit of their home before they agree to the final design. Suggestions by an expert quite often will pay for the cost of the audit in terms of energy savings.

Energy Conservation - A Way of Life

Consumers who go to the time and expense of designing and building an energy efficient home may be disappointed with the savings that they obtain if they do not practice energy conservation in their daily lives. For example, you may have paid for a well insulated home, sealed all the cracks, used caulking were you were supposed to and installed the best windows and doors. If you then leave windows open, forget to turn down the thermostat on cold winter days when you are not at home or turn up the thermostat on hot days, you may not achieve the savings that you were expecting. Leaving lights on, running appliances with partial loads e.g. the dishwasher etc can also increase your energy consumption beyond what you may have been expecting.

Our home energy checklist covers many items that home owners can consider as a means of taking advantage of all of the energy efficient attributes of their home to reduce their energy consumption even further. Making this approach part of your lifestyle will ensure that your energy savings continue after you have moved in to your new home and lived there for sometime.

Many people are also concerned about the impact of conserving energy on their comfort and may be afraid to implement some energy saving concepts. We would like to politely point out that replacing an incandescent light with a fluorescent light will not only save you energy, but provide you with a more comfortable light in your home as well. Filling up the dishwasher or the clothes washer before running them takes no additional effort on your part and saves you energy usage at the same time. There are many examples such as these that will reduce your energy consumption and not impact your comfort. In fact plugging leaks and designing ceiling fans into the home can positively improve the aesthetics as well as reduce drafts.

Review our home energy checklist and apply those items that impact your situation. You will be amazed at how much you can save by following a few simple steps!


Home Energy Savings: New House Design and Energy Conservation

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Friday, October 21, 2011

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Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Broan Model 658 Combination Bathroom Heater/Fan Unit, 70 CFM, 4.0 Sones

!±8±Broan Model 658 Combination Bathroom Heater/Fan Unit, 70 CFM, 4.0 Sones

Brand : Broan-NuTone
Rate :
Price : $69.00
Post Date : Oct 19, 2011 01:43:54
Usually ships in 3-4 business days



Broan-NuTone 658 Heater/Fan Since their beginning in 1932, Broan has pioneered many of the product innovations now established as standards of the industry. Today, Broan carries on the commitment to provide the finest products in the industry.Broan has plenty of models to choose from. So you can get exactly the comfort and convenience features you want. All in one compact, easy-to-install unit.Broan-NuTone 658 Heater/Fan Features:; Combination Units, Heater/Fan/Light; Heater/Fan; same as Model 655 but does not include light; 70 CFM 4.0 Sones; Does not include light; Designer styled white polymeric grille complements virtually any decor; 15-amp circuit acceptable; Type IC (Insulation Contact); Use with Model 68W or 68V two-function control (available separately); Two blower wheels, each powered by its own permanently lubricated plug-in motor, quietly deliver high-efficiency performance; 1300-watt heater for fast, even heat distribution; Built-in damper prevents backdrafts and eliminates metallic clatter; Adjustable, slotted mounting brackets span up to 24" for easy installation; Polymeric 4" round duct features a 2" long tapered sleeve for easy, positive ducting; All models available in single packs or Project Paks, except where noted.

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Sunday, October 16, 2011

Home Inspection - 12 Common Areas of Defects

!±8± Home Inspection - 12 Common Areas of Defects

The Barrie Home Inspector discusses the twelve most common items found during a home inspection. These are items that are commonly found during a home inspection but are listed in any order of importance.

1. Lot and Roof Drainage

Keeping water out of your house in one of the most important areas to be considered in building design and annual maintenance checklists. Eave troughs collect large amounts of water, average is 160 gallons per hour, which is then directed down to ground level to be dispersed. This is where most systems have problems, from missing extensions to reversed splash pads, and it is important to ensure all water is directed away from your home. I have actually come across homes where the sump pump was pumping water out into the exterior corner of the house where the water ran right back down the foundation to be re-cycled again. Areas around foundations are prone to settling and should be built back up to ensure that any water will flow away from home.

2. Foundations

The primary function of the foundation is to transfer the load of your house unto your footings. Water can enter your home through cracks and holes in your foundation. Cement block foundations are required to be parged and then coated with damp proofing product to prevent this. Poured concrete foundations are required to have form holes sealed to prevent water entry. Minor cracks in foundations can be attributed to settlement of building or shrinkage cracks which would appear in poured concrete foundations. Any crack in your foundation is a potential source of water entry into your basement. If your area has excellent drainage and surface water is not an issue then sealing your cracks yourself could be an option, if not then a professional will seal poured concrete cracks using injected foam or epoxy for around 3 to 600 dollars. Sealing with epoxy will make the cracked area stronger than surrounding untouched area. Horizontal cracks in basements are stress cracks and usually should be inspected by engineer to ensure safety of the home.

3. Cladding

There are many types of cladding used in homes today, we are going to discuss brick veneer and vinyl siding, the most common types of cladding used in new homes in Barrie, ON.

Brick - There are two common types of brick in use today, clay and cement bricks, clay being the most expensive and more durable of the two. The most common defects in brick are caused by poor workmanship and settling of the house or foundation. Checking the brick work for cracks in mortar is very important part of your home inspection. Finding cracks prior to moisture and freezing damage occurring can drastically reduce the amount of work required to repair problem. Corbelled brick corners are an area where cracked mortar is very common but is an easy fix. Step cracks usually indicate a structural type problem is present and deeper investigation is required. Home owners can cause damage to bricks by building planters which allow soil to contact brick, this will result in spalling of brick face and eventually the brick will crumble and require replacement.

Vinyl Siding - This product has proven to be an attractive and low maintenance alternative to brick. If not properly installed vinyl siding can come loose which will make it very susceptible to damage. Properly installed siding has to be able to expand and contract without warping, this is done by not hammering in nails tightly and the fastening slot will allow siding to expand and contract with changing temperatures. Washing your vinyl siding spring and fall is also a good idea as this will help prevent staining from air borne contaminants. Vinyl siding is susceptible to cracking, especially in winter months when cold temperatures can make it extremely brittle.

4. Windows

Windows come in all sizes and shapes with many different types of opening models. We are going to concentrate on mainly the casement style window, as this is the type of window, which commonly has defects. Casement windows commonly have problems with the cranking mechanism. Stripped windows cranks are commonly found on windows in children's bedrooms and are mainly due to the fact that in the winter these windows tend to freeze up and then when the crank is operated, a stripped mechanism results.

Broken seals in thermal units are another common defect found in windows. Windows around 15 years, and older, are usually found to have problems with leaking thermal units. There is a process that involves inserting tiny one-way vents into these units which can eliminate the moisture problem and save you money. The "R" value of windows is not so high that this procedure would create a huge heat loss.

Then there is the common defects in windows, which can include, no caulking, cracked glass panes, improperly trims, sagging headers above windows, require painting and last but not least cracked or rotting wood.

5. Roof

We are going to concentrate on asphalt or fibreglass shingles as this is by far the most common type of product used in new homes today. Shingles can last anywhere from 15 to 25 years depending on quality of product and environment that they endure. Shingles on south side of home usually fail first due to greater exposure to sun and UV radiation. Proper venting is a very important factor that can greatly affect the life of your shingles. Building code requires 1 square foot of vents for every 300 square foot of roof. Ensuring adequate venting is important part of home inspection, a lot of homes have inadequate soffit venting due to insulation preventing continuous movement of air. This allows moisture and heat to build up in your attic and will dramatically reduce life of shingles. Inspecting flashing, valleys, skylights, vents and eave trough are another important factor of your home inspection. Ensure your inspector has a ladder and walks your roof if he is able.

6. Furnace / Air Conditioning

Furnaces have an estimated life span of 15 to 20 years and this can vary greatly with maintenance being the biggest factor in extending life of your furnace. Your furnace cannot have any holes, be rusted through in any area and must be hooked up to an approved venting system. If connected to a "B" vent, a one-inch clearance must be maintained from combustibles, which also includes insulation. Check your flame color, yellow flames indicate incomplete combustion which may be fixed with a simple tune up from your furnace technician. Many furnaces have no cap for filter cover which allows for both heat and cold air to escape into your basement. Your HVAC duct should be taped using metallic duct tape to block any areas where air is escaping from your system. Humidifiers are a common cause of water source for damaging furnaces; they become clogged and overflow allowing water to enter body of furnace causing premature failure of unit.

Central air conditioners are essentially a sealed unit. Using a temperature gauge can determine if unit is operating at a level that is acceptable. I use 58 degrees F as a bench mark in testing in hot weather. This ensures that unit will maintain your home at a comfortable temperature. All lines and insulation are checked for any damage or required replacement.

7. Electrical

The number one concern for homeowners and insurance companies is aluminum wiring. Installed in the early seventies as a substitute for high price copper, aluminum has generated a lot of negative press, some maybe not deserved. Knowledge of aluminum wire is required to be disclosed by the home seller. Consequently some people are creatively hiding aluminum wiring. This might involve installing wire so insulation covers all exposed wire and running copper from main panel to junction boxes where it is connected to the existing aluminum wire.

Adding pony panels, which allowable and recommended, is a great way of expanding your main panels resources. I came across one pony panel, full sized 100 amp, which was powered off supply cables in switch box. This panel was noted in listing as an asset! There are a myriad of minor electrical problems to be checked in your home. Another main panel observation is that many people rather than add a breaker just attach two or more wires to an existing breaker, this is a not permitted and is a potential fire risk. Open junction boxes, missing covers, wiring contacting heat ducts and un-supported wiring are common defects noted on majority of inspections.

8. Plumbing

The other half of the keeping water away from your house equation is your interior plumbing system. Lack of caulking and sub-standard products or workmanship is also a big offender when it comes to keeping your house dry. Galvanized pipe is another item that insurance companies may be concerned about. Galvanized pipe tends to corrode from the inside out leaving no visible signs of impending failure, which tends to make insurance companies a little nervous about insuring homes with galvanized plumbing.

9. Insulation

Homes today have a much higher insulation R-value than older models, the standard for your attic insulation is R-32. Coupled with vapor barriers this is a very important part of your homes building envelope. Many homes have lots of insulation but it has been compromised by workmen installing products such as pot lights and never remedied. The un-suspecting homeowner never realizes the loss of heat and release of moisture that is taking place. I have inspected homes where there has been sun rooms added on and for two or more years that complete area has not had any insulation.

Vermiculite insulation is receiving a lot of attention due to asbestos hazard. Most vermiculite was produced from Libby mine in Montana and contains asbestos. There is some type of vermiculite that has no asbestos risk, which can only be determined by laboratory testing. Homeowners are obligated to disclose any vermiculite insulation that they know of. This is another area where your home inspector can help and possibly save you a lot of money and headaches.

10. Mould or Mold

We are addressing both Canadian and American mould or mold problems, eh!

Mold has been a inspection headliner for quite a number of years. Mold is present everywhere, outside, in your home and sometimes even in the wood you are building with. Moud requires three items to grow, they are; warm environment, protein supply (paper on drywall will do) and moisture. As you can see if you have any water or moisture problems in your home for any length of time then you probably have mold somewhere in your home. That is why it is so important to keep water out of your home and control the water you do have in your home by the proper use of exhaust vents, HRV units and humidity control.

11. Structural

The structural component of your home includes all the items that comprise the supporting elements of your home, which include but are limited to; footings, floors, foundation, walls, columns and piers and roofing system. Visual inspection involves looking for cracks, missing supports, under-sized support construction, twisted or cracked beams, joists, rafters, trusses or support members. Consider your structure as the exterior and interior framework that encompasses your home. Defects in this system can be considered serious and should not be taken lightly as you whole home depends on this system.

12. Miscellaneous

Here is a quick list of some of the items that I have come across that might not have been discussed above:

Septic tanks - Water pooling at the end of your bed or signs of effluent leaking are sure signs that you have some kind or septic bed problem. Buyer beware!
Chimney - Masonry chimneys can be visually ok but not approved for type of appliance you are using. Wood stoves and fireplaces usually require WETT cert for insurance.
Caulking - Any two different surfaces that are exposed to weather should be caulked. For example your window and siding should always be caulked.
Trees - Ensure there are no dead trees on property that might damage your house or any of your neighbor's property. Also trim branches away from any siding or roofing product.
Concrete Steps - Must be either cantilevered or on frost footing.
Handrails - Required to be 900 mm high in most exterior applications.
Decks - If over 23 5/8 inches (600mm) from ground are required to have guards & handrails.
Basement Bedrooms - Required to have separate exit on same level or window that is minimum area of 0.35 M2 with no dimension being less than 15 inches (380 mm).
Bathrooms - shall have either exhaust fan or opening window.
Hot Water Heater - Safety Pressure valve shall have vent directing blow-off to floor.
Garages - Required to have fume barrier and auto door closure if interior door installed.

These are just some of the common types of defects encountered during a residential home inspection, there are thousands of items that could possibly be identified.

Brought to you by Barrie Home Inspector


Home Inspection - 12 Common Areas of Defects

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Friday, October 14, 2011

Installing a Bathroom Fan

!±8± Installing a Bathroom Fan

Installing a bathroom fan is important in modern homes to reduce excessive moisture that can cause damage to paint and walls. The time to plan for a bathroom exhaust system is while the walls and ceilings are still open from new construction or remodeling.

Most bathroom fans have a metal box that needs to be installed between the ceiling rafters or floor joists. The fan will fit into this box as part of the finish work or final appliance installation.

The ceiling or attic is the best place to run the exhaust vent. A dryer vent hose makes the best vent because of its flexibility and low cost. One end of the flex hose attaches to the outlet in the metal box with a large hose clamp. The other end of the exhaust vent will lead to an opening in the roof or the soffit.

There are several types of exhaust fans available. If it's a simple fan, then you can use a regular light switch to turn it on and off. If there's a light and a heater with the fan, then you will need to use three switches to control each. There are some really nice triple switches that work well for these types of fixtures.

Be sure to turn off the breaker at the breaker box and make sure that other people in the house know what you're doing with electricity.

Let's say we're wiring a light and fan combination. We can use 12-3 NM sheathed cable which has three wires and a ground wire. From the switch we'll need to have the circuit wires to provide the power. We will run the 12-3 cable from the switch box to the fan. There will be a red wire, a black wire, and a white wire, along with a copper ground wire.

We'll use a double switch that fits into one switch box. The 12-3 cable that runs from the fan to the switch can be wired first. You will need to wire the red wire to one of the hot receptacle screws on the switch. The black wire can be connected to the other hot receptacle screw. These will usually be on the same side of the switch.

The switch will also have a screw that attaches to the house circuit power. The black wire that comes from the power circuit will connect to the switch giving it power. The white wire from the circuit power and the white wire from the fan can be joined together with a wire nut. You can also attach the copper ground wires together with a wire nut.

Tuck all of the wires into the switch box and secure the switch in place.

Next, you will wire the fan and light with the 12-3 cable. There will be four wires with this fixture. The red wire from the fan will connect to the red wire from the 12-3 cable. There will be black wire from the fan light. It will connect to the black wire from the cable. The white wire can be connected with the other white wire and the ground copper wire can be connected with the cable ground wire with a wire nut.

Secure the fan in place with the attachment screws. Turn on the breaker to make sure that each component works when you flip the switch.


Installing a Bathroom Fan

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